Category Archives: Wine

Last but not least in the series on stink – odors in the fungi family. 

First up is moldy-earthy smell (2-ethyl-fenchol and geosmine).  The molecules responsible for making your wine smell like dirty beets are usually produced by microorganisms.  The pungent smell is often caused by the lack of proper hygiene in winemaking equipment, especially vats or barrels.  Empty barrels are tricky to keep clean and free of mold because the temperature and humidity inside are often just what these microorganisms are looking for.  Once the pesky spores make their way into the pores of a wooden vessel, it’s almost impossible to remove them completely.  Sure, some earthy qualities in a wine can be enjoyable, but to prevent a moldy-smelling mess, the winemaking team needs to keep it (those barrels) clean; prewash, clean, rinse, disinfect, re-rinse – you get the idea. 

Speaking of moldy, another fault you’re probably more familiar with is cork taint.  Since the 17th century, oak cork has been the bottle sealer of choice – it’s elastic, compressible and impermeable to liquids and gases.  Its taste, similar to that of wood, also varies a bit depending on how it’s processed – stripping, seasoning, washing, etc.  A slight taste of cork or pieces of cork floating in your wine glass should not be confused with cork taint.  The former is considered pleasant by some and the latter is a problem with wine service.  Here are some scenarios, though, where the wine’s corked:

1.  A foul, putrid smell caused by yellow stains on cork harvested at the base of the trunk.  Don’t worry, though, the chances of this one are about 1 in 100,000.

2.  A taste of stagnant water caused by poor hygiene during the cork production process – the cork strips were not fully dried.

3. The smell of solvent or smoke caused by a narrow cork that created bottle leakage.  Mold or bacteria might be present and visible on the cork when you open the bottle.

4. The smell and taste of mold and must (yum!) caused by 2,4,6, tricholoro-anisole or TCA – this potent compound is responsible for 90% of cork tainted wines.  The formation of TCA  happens when chlorine reacts with organic phenols (highly prevelant compounds in the winery; in grapes, in corks, in barrels, in wooden pallets and in structural wooden beams) to form chlorophenols.  These in turn react with mold in the presence of moisture to form TCA.  Our threshold for detection of TCA is very low (less than 1 billionth of a gram per liter), so a little taint goes a long way to spoiling your glass of wine. 

What are your chances of running into a corked wine?  I’ve seen figures ranging from 2-8% of all bottles on the market – yikes.  We’ll tackle alternative packaging and closures another day.

I got a request for my recommended wines for summer (honest!).  I’ll introduce some off-the-beaten path varietals that will still appeal to all of you Pinot Grigio drinkers out there.  Summer’s certainly about drinking wines that are light, crisp and refreshing, but that doesn’t mean they have to be boring.  Today, we’ll start with the letter V. 

First up is Verdejo (vehr-DAY-ho); aromatic and herbaceous, it’s Spain’s Sauvignon Blanc.   Rueda is the spot in Spain to find Verdejo.  It’s northwest of Madrid in Castilla y León.  Wine has been made in this region since the Middle Ages, but found its stride in the 1970s, when Bodegas Marqués de Riscal of Rioja recognized the area’s potential for dry, white wines.  They began selling fresh Rueda alongside their Rioja reds and in 1980 Rueda was awarded its DO status (Denominación de Origen; controlled appellation, think France’s AC). 

Verdejo is sometimes blended with Viura (also known as Macabeo), the white grape of the Rioja region or with Sauvignon Blanc – in both cases, Verdejo must account for at least 50% of the blend.  If the label says Rueda Superior, the wine must contain at least 85% Verdejo.  Verdejos are fragrant, often with notes of apple, mint and fresh-cut grass.  In warmer years, they can take on aromas and flavors of tropical fruits.  When they’re well done, they have both juicy citrus as well as an underlying minerality.  Here’s more good news – they’re usually inexpensive – you should have no trouble finding some in the $9-$15 range.  Here are some producers to look for: Cuevas de Castilla “Con Class”, Martínsancho and Bodegas Hermanos del Villar “Oro de Castilla”. 

Next up is Vermentino (ver-mehn-TEE-noh), which is also called Rolle in Provence.  It’s grown primarily in Sardinia, Liguria and Corsica, with increasing amounts in Languedoc and Roussillon and a touch in California and Australia.    Some think the grape has Spanish origins, while others think it’s related to the Malvasia grape and to a grape called Favorita grown in Piedmont (who wouldn’t want to drink that?).  Vermentino produces a lively wine, with lots of citrus and great acidity.  Acidity=refreshment during the heat of the summer.  It’s a great partner with seafood or grilled vegetables.   Styles from Liguria tend to be a bit lighter than those from Sardinia.  Check these out: Cantina Santadi “Villa Solais”, Santa Maria la Palma “Aragosta” and Bibi Graetz “Bianca de Casamatta”. 

Last but not least for your summer sipping I present Vinho Verde DOC (VEE-nyoh VEHR-deh) (Denominação de Origem Controlada; again, controlled appellation).  I’ve switched gears now from varietal to region and I’m taking you to northwest Portugal.  Vinho verde means green wine, but not like green beer for St. Patrick’s Day – the green here refers to the youth and vivacity of the wines from this region.  These wines are slightly effervescent too, and you know how I feel about wines with bubbles.  Whites from this region are crisp, fresh and quite zippy.  They’re made from these grapes: Alvarinho (yup, Spain’s Albariño), Loureiro, Trajadura and Avesso.  Look for these in the store: Sogrape “Gazela” (I’ve seen it for $4.99!) and Auratus – a mix of Alvarinho and Trajadura and a bit more complex than most on the market. 

Map courtesy of Charles Neal Selections

As promised, I want to touch on a few of the unique wine styles found in the Jura region of France.

Vin jaune (yellow wine) is one and it’s made in a purposely oxidized style.  The grapes are picked and fermented as normal, but then the wine is placed in old, 60 gallon casks that are not filled to the top in order to encourage the growth of a film-forming yeast called the voile (veil).  This process is similar to sherry production but there’s no fortification.  The voile is not as thick as the flor (the Spanish voile equivalent) in sherry production because the temperatures are lower here than in southern Spain.   The wine is not bottled until 6 years and 3 months after harvest and it’s full-bodied, mineral-driven and nutty.

The best vin jaune appellation is Château-Chalon, where the wine must be made using the local Savagnin grapes.  You’ll often see it in a distinct clavelin bottle, which is 620 ml, as opposed to the standard 750 ml wine bottle.   The locals claim that 620 ml is the amount left after leaving a liter in cask for 6 years.  Vin jaune from the best vintages will last 50 or more years.  A compound called sotolan forms during the bottle aging process and can give the wine spicy, curry flavors.  Try it with poultry dishes or a cheese course.  Here are some producers to look for: Jean Macle, Berthet-Bondet, Baud Père et Fils and Philippe Butin.

Another unique style in the region is vin de paille (straw wine), a long-lived sweet white wine made from grapes that have been dried on straw mats.  This style is called strohwein in Germany.  These wines are rare and only produced in very ripe vintages.  Once the grapes have raisinated, the yield is pretty small, so you’ll usually find these wines in half-bottles.

The Jura producers use Savagnin, Poulsard or Chardonnay to make this style and they often will place the grapes in boxes, rather than on mats, to dry them.  The grapes are pressed in January and are aged in cask for at least three years.  The resulting wine is rich and honeyed, with notes of dried apricots.  Try it with fruity or nutty desserts, with pungent cheeses or as a dessert on its own.