Worth a trip uptown, indeed.
Monthly Archives: June 2011
All of these wine posts made me thirsty for a cocktail. Fortunately, my friend Dushan recently gave me a copy of his book Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined and I tested a few of the recipes yesterday.
Few things quench your thirst in summer like Campari.
1 1/2 oz. Campari
1 1/2 oz. Dolin Rouge Sweet Vermouth
1 orange half-wheel (I cheated and used what was already at the bar)
3 oz. club soda
I shook the Campari, vermouth and orange, poured it over fresh ice, topped with club soda and added a fresh orange garnish. Some fun facts from the book:
*this drink was first created in the 1860s at Gaspare Campari’s bar in Milan. It was originally named Milano-Torino for its two main ingredients: Campari from Milan and Cinzano from Turin.
*this drink inspired the Negroni.
*Americano is the first cocktail that James Bond orders in the novel Casino Royale (long before he orders a Martini).
5 oz. Llopart Cava Leopardi brut rosé, divided (I didn’t have any rosé Cava open, so I used Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace rosé)
1 raw brown sugar cube (I only had white)
4 or 5 dashes Angostura bitters
3/4 oz. Campari (yes, I’ll be drinking a lot of this this summer)
1 lemon twist
Pour 1 1/2 oz. of sparkling into the flute, saturate the cube with bitters and place it in the flute. Wait a moment, then top off with Campari and the balance of sparkling. Garnish with lemon twist.
The book describes this cocktail as sexy and I couldn’t agree more. Look at it. If you think you don’t like Campari, this will change your mind.
New York Sour
1 3/4 oz. rye (he suggests Rittenhouse 100, I used McKenzie)
3/4 oz. lemon juice
3/4 oz. simple syrup
3/4 oz. dry red wine (I used Malbec)
1 orange half-wheel
1 brandied cherry
Shake the rye, lemon and simple with ice. Strain over fresh ice into a rocks glass, float the wine on top and garnish with the orange and cherry.
In 2003 this cocktail made it on to the opening drink list at Schiller’s, the year before Dushan opened Employees Only. The origins of the drink are unclear, though the best guess seems to be that it’s a Prohibition-era favorite, as the lemon juice, sugar and wine would have camouflaged the crap, watered-down whiskey available at that time. When made with tasty ingredients, however, this drink is pretty killer – rye dominated backbone, with added structure from the red wine, but balanced by the citrus and a kiss of sweetness. Quaffable and aesthetically pleasing!
The first rule of food and wine pairing is that there are no rules.
Fight Club aside, I can give you some tips. Before that, however, I’d like to make the point that food and wine pairing should not be a stressful undertaking. Wine tasting is a very subjective business and pairing, even more so. Worst case scenario; the pairing is a flop. Outcome; eat the food first and then drink the wine, or just skip the food altogether, and drink up.
1. Weight class. You have a better chance of being successful if you match the weight and intensity of the wine with the weight and intensity of a dish. What influences a wine’s intensity? Body, tannin, sweetness, alcohol, acidity, olfactory components. Sounds like a lot, but we can break it down.
The body of the wine can be compared to the body of milk, meaning having a glass of a light-bodied wine might be like drinking skim milk, while imbibing a fuller-bodied wine could be compared to drinking half and half (not that you’d want to…). You can equate the body of the wine with how heavy it feels on your palate. The fuller-bodied the wine is, the more intense it seems to most consumers.
Tannin is that mouth-drying effect we get from the skins of red grapes used in red winemaking. More tannic wines tend to be more intense.
Sweetness in wine can make the wine seem more intense, by contributing to how full-bodied we perceive the wine to be.
Alcohol in wine also contributes to our perception of the body of the wine. More booze = more viscosity = fuller-bodied wine = more intense experience.
Acidity is the refreshing, mouth-watering quality of wine that keeps us going back for more and it may make the wine seem lighter.
Olfactory components can make a wine seem intense. Does the wine smell fruity? Oaky? Earthy? Smelling more stuff = more intense experience.
Generally speaking, white wines are more intense than sparkling wines. The carbonation makes these wines light and lively on the palate – think scrubbing bubbles! Red wines are more intense than white wines, often because of the tannin component, and fortified wines (think Sherry or Port) are more intense than red wines, because of their elevated alcohol content.
How do you determine a dish’s intensity? Salads and fish seem ‘lighter’ than poultry and red meat. The difference is not one of calories or protein, but of fat content, which boosts textural richness and perception of flavor.
Don’t forget to take all aspects of the dish into account. The cooking method will also dictate the dish’s intensity. Braising or grilling will yield greater intensity than poaching. The finishing sauce(s) or seasoning(s) need to be taken into consideration as well. A light white fish finished with a tarragon cream sauce will need a different wine than a light white fish finished with a squeeze of lemon.
2. Compare vs. Contrast – two basic ways to attack the pairing scenario. It can be easy to find comparable flavors in wine and food. Think about the herbaceous nature of Sauvignon Blanc. If you are making a lighter dish, finished with fresh herbs, Sauvignon Blanc would be a good pick. When similar elements are present in the flavor of both wine and food, they tend to balance each other. This is generally a flattering effect, creating a perception of harmony. Sweet wines do best with sweet foods. High acid foods do best with high acid wines.
Going in the other direction, you can select a wine that has opposite qualities from the dish. Pairing fried chicken with a crisp white is a good example – the acidity in the wine will cut through the fattiness of the fried dish.
3. Regional pairings or “what grows together goes together”. This one is pretty self-explanatory.
4. Order of the courses. When doing a professional wine tasting, whites are tasted before reds, dry wines are tasted before sweet wines and light-bodied wines are tasted before fuller-bodied wines. A similar rule of thumb is used when creating a multi-course menu – lighter dishes precede heavier dishes and dessert is served at the end of the meal.
5. Seasonal component. You should be a seasonal drinker, like you’re a seasonal eater. It works. Meaty, braised dishes that we crave in winter will work well with robust reds. Spring vegetables do better with white wines. When grilling in the summer, utilize rosé wines or lighter-bodied reds, served with a slight chill. For the fall, refer to other tips presented here.
6. Big Players – salt, sugar, spicy heat and fat. Salt is present in almost everything we eat, in the main ingredients we cook with, and especially as a seasoning. If you’ve ever worked in a restaurant, you definitely know what I’m talking about!
Salt triggers salivation, and our food tastes better as a result. Salt can overwhelm the taste buds on the tongue, in particular those that perceive sourness, or acidity. Since all food is salty to some degree, wine will always seem less acidic with food than it does alone. This helps explain why so many of the world’s classic food-oriented wines can seem too sharp or tart on the first sip. Most are high acid styles, produced by winemakers who assume we’ll pair their wine with a meal, instead of chugging it in front of the tv.
For lower acid styles of wine that may seem delicious alone, this effect is less flattering, as whatever refreshing edge was present in the wine is lost. In general, when pairing wine and food, sommeliers or restaurateurs will choose a style that seems too sharp/tart alone, knowing the perceptions of salt and acidity will balance each other on the palate.
Instead of making wine seem less acidic, sweetness in food draws dramatic attention to wine’s acidity. Sugar in food blunts the tongue’s ability to perceive sweetness in wine, and vice versa. Typical ‘dry’ wines will seem even drier with sweet foods than they do alone. ‘Off-dry’ or fully sweet styles, may taste ‘bone dry’ if the accompanying dish is sweet enough.
Pairing sweet foods with the bone-dry classic wines of the Old World (think France, Spain, Italy, Portugal) can be particularly unflattering, like having a sip of orange juice immediately after brushing your teeth. Most New World styles (think U.S., Australia, New Zealand, Argentina) fare better with sweet foods and sauces, since they are not quite as dry and tend to have riper fruit flavors. Sweet foods are apt to throw most wines out of balance by playing up the wine’s acidity and playing down its sweetness.
Spicy heat in food can be difficult to pair with wine. Think about what you find most often on beverage menus in Asian restaurants. Beer! It often works better than wine with the spiciest cuisines, as its average alcohol content is much lower; 4-8% vs. 12-15% in table wine.
The fiery heat of hot sauce or chili peppers creates a mildly painful burning sensation on the lips and tongue, and alcohol intensifies this burn. Remember when your mom would pour alcohol over a cut or scrape to clean it and it would burn? Same idea. The higher a wine’s alcohol, the more painful and lingering the spicy heat appears to be.
Two strategies may be employed in pairing wines with spicy food: choosing lighter-bodied, lower-alcohol wines or choosing wines with noticeable sweetness (a touch of residual sugar). Sugar helps to tame the burning sensation caused by spicy food.
Fat plays a major role in making the foods we like to eat taste delicious! Fats and oils have a special relationship to red wines in particular; they minimize the astringent effect of tannin. By drying the mouth of saliva, tannin can limit the sensations perceived by the taste buds and the olfactory center. Fat’s ability to release red wine’s tannic grip on the mouth allows our food to seem juicier and more flavorful.
Fat in cheeses and meats will soften red wine’s harshness. Tannic wines will cut through the oily mouthfeel of rich foods and cleanse the palate. Animal fats, like those found in dairy products and meats, are the strongest in countering tannin. The easiest way to remember this tip is to think about the wine list at a steak house. It’s full of big, fat red wines that will purr like kittens, once paired with a fatty steak.
Oils derived from plants, like olive oil or sesame oil, can achieve a similar effect, but to a lesser degree. However, the oils found in fish and seafood are different in composition, and are inadequate to offset tannin’s drying effect. This is the root of one of the oldest ‘rules’ of wine and food pairing, “white with fish, red with meat”. While the general principle is sound, there are exceptions: Red wine can be delightful with fish if low tannin wines or fatty sauces are chosen and white wines can be better partners for ‘low-fat’ meat dishes.
What makes a good food and wine pairing? Well, it depends on your goal. Are you pulling a special bottle from the cellar that you’d like to highlight? You’re better off creating a very simple dish that won’t steal the wine’s thunder. Been slaving over a hot stove all day? Pick a simple wine that won’t overshadow your handiwork.
For me,the best pairings are when the food and the wine taste better together than each did on its own.
I use Ann C. Noble’s wine aroma wheel in several of my classes. Say what you will about it. Supplying people with vocabulary to accurately describe what they’re smelling and tasting is a great way to get them excited about wine.
On Grub Street yesterday, a new kind of wheel popped up – one to decipher wine labels.
The accompanying article is worth reading. The teaser line is, “Without labels of jumping kangaroos, how would we know which wines to avoid?”
On French labels…”It’s the fancy stuff, and it will taste sort of like dirt, but in a good way.”
On diluted French labels…”Take the French label and remove a lot of the words. Voilà! ”
On graphic design sub-class Pottery Barn…”American wine that tastes like the vanilla-scented candle they always put in those catalogue rooms.”
On nostalgic vacation labels…”These wine labels are sort of ingenious in that they skip over the wine entirely — “Who cares what grape it is! There’s a flip-flop on the label!” — and go straight to the lifestyle you imagine yourself having while you drink it….I have had enough hangovers to know with full certainty that these are cheap wines that taste like hangovers.”
Sure, there were elegant, full-flavored reds, and yes, we saw that famous terra rosa soil, but what stood out for me when we spent a weekend in Coonawarra, was the hospitality and fun-loving spirit of the people who live there.
Before dinner on our first night, a few winemakers volunteered to take us out for a drive in the bush. Apparently, this is a fairly typical activity. I chose the truck with the dog and the eski (cooler) in the back.
The rugged landscape reminded me of the pine forests in New Jersey – sparse, sandy soils, and at first glance, seemingly little wildlife. We did find some kangaroos, though the highlight was bush chook, or wild emu. Damn, those are some big, ugly birds who can run at quite a clip. According to the locals, they’re about as bright as kangaroos. This is not a compliment.
We were taking these sandy “roads” at speeds that none of our bus drivers had attempted on the highways. With tires spinning, the back of the truck fishtailing, and a cold beer in my hand, I gleaned insight about what life is like in the Coonawarra. I had a big grin on my face the whole time.
Alan Kropf, Editor in Chief of Mutineer Magazine, joined us for part of our trip and like me, had his camera attached to him the entire time. I still need more practice, but check out this great series of snippets below. You’ll recognize quite a bit from my last few posts. I’ve haven’t gotten to Coonawarra yet, but this will give you a taste of what’s to come.